Reflections on the New Menin Gate
– ‘this sepulchre of crime’ [Siegfried Sassoon]
Last
week, with three project volunteers, I went to the battlefields of NW
Belgium – my first visit. We planned to tour dozens of CWGC
cemeteries around the town of Ieper(Ypres) – a place synonymous
with the suffering and loss of more than 200,000 British and Dominion
troops.
A
focal event of any
visit to the area is the Last Post ceremony held each evening at 8pm
under the massive monument which stands over the road leading from
Ieper to Menen - the exit for many thousands of British soldiers who
would never return from the wasteland of shellfire and unimaginable
horrors of trench warfare.
What
strikes you immediately is the town itself and the orderly normality
of a place that was reduced to an unrecognisable desert of rubble and
the detritus of war 100 years ago. The town was rebuilt rapidly,
including the massive Cloth Hall and nearby cathedral. Because of
this the minor industry of battlefield tours operating daily seems
almost at odds with an unremarkable small town community that has to
live under the shadow of a monument whose very construction was
controversial.
85
years after its unveiling the Menin Gate, inscribed with the names of
almost 55000 men with no known grave from fighting in the Ypres
Salient, stands as an unavoidable reminder of the suffering of the
Belgian people and the cost borne by the British forces as they
steadfastly maintained a toe-hold on Belgian soil - a political
gesture; when military logic suggested a withdrawal to the west would
perhaps have saved tens of thousands of lives.
Outside
the town today one has to try hard to imagine the scene which greeted
the returning Belgians in November, 1918. Lush pastures today however
harbour reminders of the savage and brutal conflict which drenched
these fields in blood and inspired John McCrae to write his famous
poem –‘In
Flanders Fields’.
The
crosses he observed were replaced by the immaculate rows of
headstones
in dozens of cemeteries; many the final resting place of a man
described only as ‘A soldier of the Great War’ and bearing
Kipling’s famous epitaph ‘Known
unto God’.
The serenity and peace to be found in these little-visited fragments
of Belgium contain anything from a few dozens to thousands of graves.
Private soldiers lying alongside generals: the known amongst the
unknown – preserving the Commission’s principle of equality in
death.
So,
how to sum up a visit which posed many questions, on one hand a
raucous group of British schoolchildren, led by teachers who seemed
unable or unwilling to control them - is this place just becoming a
tourist attraction? Through to the mind numbing image of the walls of
the Menin Gate, carrying lists of names, regiment by regiment in
alphabetic order by rank, so numerous that they read almost like the
pages of a telephone book – did we learn anything from this
tragedy?
For
the project we have secured photographs of many men’s memorials for
inclusion in their database record – for that reason alone the trip
was worthwhile.
Anyone
with information on this week’s casualties or anyone killed or died
as a result of the war is asked to contact the project. The project
workroom
at Room B9 Linskill Community Centre, Trevor Terrace, North Shields
is open from 1000 to 1600 each weekday for visitors and for anyone
interested to learn more about the project or how to get involved.
Alan Fidler